heel hybrid

chumleysma

New member
I have 3 weeks to go until Chumley is tested for loose leash walking. Though he's had enough training classes, he doesn't know "heel" and this instructor picked up on that. I tried to just treat him as we circled, but Chumley kept wanting to do the "touch" clicker command on my hand so I incorporated it into this heel command. I did not realise he was slipping and sliding on his drool that dropped on the linoleum.
Anyhow, the only problem I've run into is...he catches on quickly when there's no treat and he then refuses to work for no food.
 

DAWNMERIE

Active member
Good to see you guys :) I'm sure you can work it out, and the drool gets ya every time! I don't have any advise for that smart whipper snapper but wish you guys best of luck!
 

pecanpiepatti

New member
been there, done that - don't treat for "every" right move ... heel baby steps, then longer steps is what we've been told - always a work in progress!
 

chumleysma

New member
been there, done that - don't treat for "every" right move ... heel baby steps, then longer steps is what we've been told - always a work in progress!
Does this mean ask for a heel and treat every 3rd step, then every 6th step, then every 9th step...so on and so forth?
 

wrknnwf

Active member
Here's your problem. You need to walk faster and brisker. Your own hesitant gait leaves him confused. Walk confidently and convince yourself that he is going to stay right with you instead of questioning where he is.

Do this:
1. Go somewhere where you can take 10 very brisk steps in a straight line. No turns yet (see below). Keep your strides long and don't mince your steps. Try to do this in an open area instead of a narrow hall. Don't try to heel him more than that initially, because heeling is a lot of work for a dog. Never try to heel for longer that a couple of minutes. When you teach him to heel properly for ten to twenty steps, loose leash (more casual), walking will be a breeze. Your own pace will let him know what to do and just picking up your pace will be a cue to keep up with you.

2. Do not turn and glance at him over your shoulder. That will make him lag behind. Keep looking forward and use your peripheral vision to see where he is. His head should be just forward of your leg. If you are looking forward and walking briskly, he will pay more attention to where you are going instead of waiting for a treat to appear.

3. Do not click or treat him unless his head is just forward of your leg. If you treat him by letting your hand drop behind you, that's where he will stay, expecting a treat to appear there. Keep that hand forward of your leg. Also, do not click in his face. That can startle him into lagging. You can keep your treat hand at your waist if that helps. Just don't let him cross in front of you to get to it. Make sure you keep walking briskly as you treat. Don't hesitate or slow down. In 10 steps, he shouldn't have too much trouble keeping up and you may only need to treat him at the end of your pattern. Make a fuss when he does well. If he does do well, then you can add a few more steps, but practice just the 10 until he is near perfect.

4. Do not come to a screeching halt when you finish those 10 steps. Make the last 2 or 3 steps a bit slower. That cues him that you are going to stop and helps prevent him walking past you.

If you are planning on any obedience trials, keep him on your left side. And if you do this and can remember, always start your heeling on YOUR left foot first. That's another cue for him to heel beside you. If you are going to let him stay on your right side, start your heeling on your right foot. These subtle cues, with practice, will help him understand what you want.

Practice heeling without him a few times to get the hang of it. Really! It helps. I used to "heel" whenever I walked to the other end of the house (sans dog) or walked from the car into a building.

Walking too slow, glancing over your shoulder and dropping your hand behind you are all common beginner mistakes. So make your steps brisker, like you have a definite destination, keep your head in the direction of your movement, and keep that hand forward. Put him on leash for a while, if you worry about him lagging or wandering off.

Once he is staying with you in a straight line, then you can do turns, because turns are much harder to coordinate. When you go into a turn where you are on the inside, pick up your pace even more. You can even break into a couple of running steps. Or just walk as fast as you can for a few steps. Remember that when he is on the outside of a turn, he has to take more steps than you to keep up, so if you go really fast, that will encourage him to stay at your side. If you are on the outside, keep your pace at a normal rate because he will be forced to slow down and must compensate so he doesn't run into you.

And lastly...Don't walk like a robot. If he's having trouble keeping up try being silly. Sing. Prance. Dance. Ronnie Taft will tell you it absolutely works.

Try it and then check back in.
 
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R Taft

Active member
I always love Jane's advice and she helped me a lot with Annabelle when I had issues inthe early days. But i now also do a lot of walking backwards...instead of going forward, I have the dog infront of me looking at me and i walk backwards...I wait for the full focus on me and i literally speed up, walk forward normally and they end up beside me in the right position and i click and treat and reward often with a tuggy. Intially this is for very short moments and it becomes longer and longer. I will post a video if you like. Someone showed it to me a while ago and I just love doing this with my dogs, it really gets them animated.....
 

chumleysma

New member
Thank you both for the help. Jane...I now see these mistakes and we're working to correct them. I was doing this blindly on my own. You said to keep it short, but he already told me, "this is getting old and I'm losing interest" when I pressed it too long on our nightly walk. We're in the process of weaning off the treats which is hard for me as I'm scared he'll quit on me. At present, he's ok with every third treat. I quit over the shoulders and definately picked up the pace. I keep my hand on my belt and drop in front of me now for heel. I didn't know I had him on the wrong side for obedience as we've never had those classes. Who knows, maybe we'll go there. I love taking classes with him. I would love to do nosework next, but there are no instructors as yet in our county.
Ronnie...I would greatly appreciate a video, because I'm not sure I follow. I did watch a short video of a hunter in the field showing heel. He did turns and backwards too. I never thought of backwards heel. The problem is he knows the back up command only when I'm facing him with verbal and hand signals combined.
I just want to say thanks to you two. I really appreciate the free advice. This stuff is fun to me...kinda' my hobby.
 

wrknnwf

Active member
Ronnie's method is great! I get what she is saying, so hopefully she will send you a vid. It's not what you are imagining.

If you keep things interesting and keep him guessing, you won't have to be scared that he will quit. Make it a game instead of a task. YOU have to be interesting enough for him to want to keep up with you. Here's another thing you might try. Right in the middle of your heeling, break into a silly dance to get him re-energized. Surprise him.

I forgot to add something very important. Always have a release word(s) for when the exercise is finished. He needs to know that he can relax now. It should come before your praise and just after your final click. You could say "all done" or "OK" or something that you won't use at other times. When you wean him off the clicker and treats, that release word will hopefully take their place as a marker. But don't drop the enthusiastic praise. Also, try varying the intervals at which you treat him for now. One step, three steps, two steps, five steps, three steps, eight steps, etc. If you always treat on three steps, he will figure that out and expect it. As he gets better, you can lengthen the intervals until you only treat at the end of your exercise. Patience, patience and more patience is required.

On your nightly walks, you can do a few heeling exercises in between just casual walking periods. This is where a release word really helps to let him know he's finished heeling for now. When he gets better at heeling, start teaching him "fast" and "slow" so he learns to adjust his pace to yours. You can use those words for commands until he has it figured out. After that, he should do it without you telling him.

It is fun! But it takes a lot of practice and most dogs (and handlers) will take many months to a year to perfect it. So don't give up. Expect a few regressions along the way. Just start over with the basics or go back to the last point that he was doing it correctly if he seems to forget. And keep it joyful. Training should be a blast, not a tiresome job. If it gets tedious at any time, take a break and try to figure out why. Don't just keep practicing those things that are causing you problems. Try something different. Think creatively.

Looking forward to a new video to see your improvements! We'll give you some time...hahaha.
 
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