Jeannie
Super Moderator
This was posted by Ardeagold on 2/22/05. I have kept it marked bacause it was so informative. I thought I would bring it here. Hope you don't mind Donna.
One of the "camera savvy" members started a topic "Lesson One...Camera Settings" and then it went on and on. To the point of having lessons with assignments for the rest of us.
The forum title became "Shooting the Golden"...and is extremely popular. After the first lesson and the attendant questions and answers, we were required to post "Near and Far" photos (in a different thread) along with our "entries" with the name of the camera, lens used and settings used. Then they were "critiqued"...nicely! LOL
Here's the first lesson from Wendy (a photo buff member of ours):
Since this has come up a few times, I put some time into explaining camera basics: SHUTTER SPEED AND APERTURE SETTINGS. Hope this is helpful!
First off, the difference between the SLR and P&S:
SLR vs. Point and Shoot
There are two types of consumer cameras on the market -- SLR cameras and "point-and-shoot" cameras. The main difference is how the photographer sees the scene. In a point-and-shoot camera, the viewfinder is a simple window through the body of the camera. You don't see the real image formed by the camera lens, but you get a rough idea of what is in view.
In an SLR camera, you see the actual real image that the film will see. If you take the lens off of an SLR camera and look inside, you'll see how this works. The camera has a slanted mirror positioned between the shutter and the lens, with a piece of translucent glass and a prism positioned above it. This configuration works like a periscope -- the real image bounces off the lower mirror on to the translucent glass, which serves as a projection screen. The prism's job is to flip the image on the screen, so it appears right side up again, and redirect it on to the viewfinder window. (From howstuffworks.com)
Aperture: The size of the the hole the camera uses as you take a photo.
The aperture control is commonly referred to as “F-Stops”. Now this is the confusing part: as the F-stop number goes up, the opening actually gets smaller. F45, F22, F16, F8, F5.6, F4, F2.8 are examples are F-stop settings. Of this list, F45 has the smallest opening and F2.8 has the largest opening.
Aperture size – so what???
The smaller the hole, the more in-focus your photo ENTIRE will become.
· Ansel Adams was famous for his crisp, clear landscape photos with focus that went on forever. He typically used F64, F 45….
Photo Example
When the hole is larger, the focus is more selective.
· Portrait photographers usually use smaller F-stop (bigger hole) settings, so the focus of the subject (face, object) is in focus, but the background may be a little blurry.
· Example (notice Chili's nose is in focus, but his eyes are starting to blur and the background is totally out of focus):
Photo Example #2
Remember, when the hole is larger, it lets in MORE LIGHT!!! (F1.8, F2.8)
When the hole is smaller, it lets in LESS LIGHT. (F 22, F45)
An interesting fact is that a higher F-stop number lets in half as much light as one number lower. For example, F5.6 admits twice as much light as F8, while F11 lets in only half as much.
Shutter Speed: How fast does the camera shutter open and close?
The shutter is basically the “door” that allows light through the camera to the sensor/film in order to record the desired image.
Shutter speeds can range from 1 second or more, to 1/10,000 of a second, depending on camera.
Higher speeds are needed on bright, sunny days.
If you try to use a slower shutter speed on a very bright day, your photo will likely be very over exposed.
Lower speeds are needed indoors, or in darker situations. Typically, most people can’t hold the camera still for 1/30 of a second, or slower. If you run into a situation in which you need very slow shutter speeds, you should use a tripod. This photo was shot at ½ second, using a tripod:
Photo Example #3
How aperture and shutter speed work together!
Aperture works by limiting the physical SIZE of light allowed into the camera.
Shutter speed works by limiting the time the light is allowed into the camera.
Aperture Priority: Setting on your camera that allows YOU to choose the aperture you want to work with; shutter speed will be automatically determined
As the aperture size increases (smaller F-stop, larger hole), the required shutter speed needed to make the correct exposure** will decrease.
Bigger hole = more light à needs a faster shutter
As the aperture size decreases (higher F-stop, smaller hole), the required shutter speed needed to make the correct exposure will increase.
Smaller hole = less light à needs slower shutter
Shutter Priority: Setting that allows YOU to choose the shutter speed you want to work with; aperture setting will automatically be determined.
As the shutter speed increases (faster shutter, less light), the required aperture setting to make the correct exposure will increase.
Faster shutter = less light à needs a larger hole (lower F-stop)
As the shutter speed decreases (slower shutter, more light), the required aperture setting to make the correct exposure will decrease.
Slower shutter = more light à needs smaller hole (higher F-stop)
To put some real numbers to these theories, the following settings will all result in roughly the same exposure:
Aperture F22 F16 F11 F8 F5.6
Shutter 1/30 1/60 1/125 1/250 1/500
**The camera has a complicated metering system for determining the correct exposure. There are ways to over-ride or fine tune this, but for the purpose of this discussion, this is irrelevant.
Summary
Understanding the basic aperture/shutter relationship will make you less dependent on having to use the manufacturer’s pre-settings. In fact, if you think about it , many of today's SLRs with their 'auto programs' are really just expensive point and shoots! Learn the basics and make full use of your camera!
