I used a clicker at first. The procedure is similar for all.
For closing a drawer:
I used a post it note.
I clicked and treated for interest in the post it note a few times.
I kept moving the post it closer to a drawer until the post it was on the drawer. Once it was on the drawer I clicked and treated for touching the drawer and centrally for pushing. Once he reliably pushed the drawer I started introducing the command to push. Then I only treated for pushing the drawer closed completely and only with his nose and not his paw. (His paws scratch the woodwork.)
For sit when I stop walking:
Walk, stop, give the command sit which he already knew, click and treat. Rinse and repeat. Jackpot of treats when he does it without the command.
For come to my right side and sit down:
Use a high value treat.
Stand with your right side near a wall or chair with just enough room for your dog. Have the dog on your left on a leash if necessary to start. Lure the dog behind you and into position with the treat and into a sit. When the dog does this readily start adding the command side and continue to lure with a treat. Eventually, just the motion you use and the command works. Jackpot! Then you can try it moving away from the wall and also when the dog is farther away from you.
Take it:
Hold the object and click for any interest in the object at all for a few times. Next,
Click only for mouthing the object.
Click only for object in mouth.
Put object on the floor. Click for interest in object but hopefully dog will just pick object up. Jackpot if he does.
Start adding the comman take it when he picks it up reliably. Be sure to try to catch the object at first.
I taught the release or give command at the same time but I use the command thank you. When I would click and treat the dog would open his mouth for the treat, releasing the object to my hand (well, it was no accident my hand was right there!) and I would say thank you. Eventually, move to saying thank you before the treat is given. Eventually move to treat only when object is placed in your hand. If he drops it on the ground, say a gentle no and point to the object on the floor. Be patient. Try not to re issue the command to take it. Treat when he picks it up and try extra hard to catch the darned thing.
Hid and seek/ find it is easy.
Take a treat and let your dog smell it. Put him in a sit or whatever so he can't follow you. Hide the treat in an obvious place in plain view fairly close to your dog. How far depends on your dog. Give th command find it in an excited voice and let the dog go. Chances are he will use his nose a bit and find it right away. Happy, excited praise. Rinse and repeat gradually increasing the distance, difficulty and number of hiding spots in an enclosed area and then more to other areas. To find a person, have a person hold the treat, let the dog sniff their hand, then the person goes to hide and you give the command find so and so in an excited voice. Again, start with easy places to hide and gradually increase the difficulty like under a blanket or behind a partially closed door or behind furniture ... Obviously, the person gives the treat when the dog finds them. For us, find means the dog must touch them with his nose or paw. If he can't reach them he will usually sit and I'd treat for that.
For pull:
Click for interest in the rope
Click for mouthing rope
Click for pulling rope like a game of tug
Add command pull when playing tug
Put rope on door handle. Use a long rope say just about to the floor at first so it is easier for the dog. Wiggle the end of the rope to get the dog's interest and give the command pull. Click for any movement of the door and jackpot for full closure. Shorten the rope and repeat.
For stay I used that relaxation protocol that is here somewhere to about day five. Then I started adding rolling balls, kids running by and other distractions. So far, we are only reliable in the house and I need to do more work in other locations.
For the recall, only use the comman come when you can enforce it ie when your dog is on a leash or long line or you know 100 percent he will come. Always be happy and treat lavishly. Eventually, proceed to other locations on a long line. Wait for the dog to become distracted by sniffing or whatever then give the command. Tug the line if necessary. Start running backwards away from your dog a bit. The dog will run to get to you. Raise your hand into th sit command you use so the dog sits in front of you then treat and praise for good come! We need to work more on this but the foundation is laid.
Stand:
Have to dog sit.
Use a treat and lure the dog to a stand by standing at his side and putting your hand with the treat at his nice. Draw your hand in a straight line a few inches forward. The dog will have to stand to keep sniffing the great. Click and treat quickly before he steps. Eventually, add the command stand before treating. Eventually, th motion of your hand and the command itself will elicit the behaviour. Practice from a down position, too.
Roll over:
Dog lies down. Obi usually lies with one hip under him so I gently push him onto his side to make it easier at first. Lure with a treat at his nose. Help him over the first time by gently flipping his bottom back leg over. For this exercise I used the command roll over right away I think. Anyway, eventually he got it and he will roll one way and back the other way. Still working on getting him to roll over to the wrong side ie the side opposite the hip he is lying on. No luck there, tip: have lots and lots of space for this because you don't want your training impeded by an incomplete roll over due to obstacles like wall so furniture.
It is important to work on a skill consistently. When your dog is learning the skill, practice everyday for a few days. Keep the sessions very short. Maybe ten trials at most. Do more short sessions a couple of times a day rather then long ones. Five or ten minutes at a time is ample and even that time frame allows rest periods for the dog. Always end on a positive note of success. If you see your dog starting to lose interest stop before he does. If you see your dog panting or showing signs of stress, make the task easier, something you know he can do, then stop the session and come back to it later. Be sure to practice what your dog knows regularly too.
